Note: Featured photo by photographer Paul Sundberg.

What is a Tuilik?

A tuilik (too-e-leek) is a combination of a hooded jacket and a sprayskirt. It originated in the Inuit culture and was designed to seal a kayak’s cockpit opening as well as to keep the kayaker warm and dry. The modern day equivalant is wearing a drytop and a sprayskirt. The Inuit made the first tuiliks out of seal skin, but modern tuiliks come in Gore-Tex and neoprene. For winter, you want a neoprene version.

Paddlers coming from a neoprene sprayskirt to a tuilik often note how much more free they feel in a tuilik. You’re able to twist, rotate and turn your body much more easily than with a sprayskirt. Tuiliks make torso rotation easier and can help you set up rolls more easily. Neoprene tuiliks are also extremely warm, which makes it a good piece of gear for winter kayaking.

Commercial versions of neoprene tuiliks, such as Brooks tuilik, often run around $400, but you can make your own for the price of a sheet of neoprene, a pattern, glue and a few odds and ends. Homemade tuiliks run around $150, but if you get a group together to buy neoprene, you might be able to get a sheet of neoprene for less than $40, which would drop the cost to somewhere around $60 per tuilik.

Wearing a Tuilik

Getting into a neoprene tuilik is never a pleasant experience to me. Unless you align the seams of the arms correctly, they’ll feel twisted the entire time you wear it, so as you put it on make sure that the seams run correctly up the side of your arms. Once on pull the hood over your head, the opening should extend down around your chin so that your chin, mouth, nose and eyebrows show. Your tuilik may have a string that’s designed to wrap around the top of your head to tighten the hood opening. On a Brooks’ tuilik, the string works best for me by not wrapping it around my forehead like shown on Brooks’ website. I just pull it tight and then adjust the neoprene down to my eyebrows and pull the opening a bit forward around my cheeks. That usually keeps most of the water out during a roll. Experiment to get the best fit.

Tuiliks for Kayak Kayaking

Although tuiliks are warm, they don’t protect you during a swim, so when the water is cold you should wear a drysuit or wetsuit underneath. During winter, I wear a drysuit with plenty of insulation and then the tuilik with a lifevest over top. This combo keeps me more than warm enough to roll even when the temperature hovers around 20 degrees Fahrenheit. On longer winter paddles, a neoprene tuilik may feel too hot, but it’s easy to do a roll and cool off.

Wearing a tuilik with a drysuit underneath feels a little bulky, but it’s not bad, and you’ll be happy for the extra warmth and hood in the cold. If you do any significant winter paddling or rolling in cold water, I highly recommend getting a tuilik.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: The Tuilik: a Perfect Bit of Kit for Winter Kayaking

In the above picture (staring left and going clockwise): Pelican 1020 case, SealLine Baja 5 HD, Pelican 1400 case, Aquapac SLR case, Aquapac Mini Camera with Hard Lens case. Cameras are a Canon S95 and a Nikon FM3a.

Hardcore Camera Protection

If you need the best camera protection, then a hard case, such as the Pelican cases, are the way to go. These cases protect your electronics from impacts and water. When sealed correctly they are waterproof, dustproof and airtight, which is more than dry bags will claim. The bigger sizes come with foam inserts that you can customize to fit your gear exactly.

Pelican cases make it very easy to get to your gear. You just unsnap the latches, lift the lid and grab your camera. In rougher water, it’s fast and feels safer than using a dry bag. Getting your gear back into the case is also quick and easy. You don’t feel like you’re fighting the case when you use these. The best way to use a Pelican case is to have it at your feet in a canoe or to have it strapped to the deck or between your knees in a kayak. That makes it easy to get to.

The downside is that you need large hatches to get the bigger sizes into your kayak. I find that they work much better for canoe trips than kayak trips (mainly because I have round hatches on my kayaks). The other downside is that they’re heavy. I have friends that use these cases to carry computers, sat phones and such, but they have kayaks with larger hatch covers. I typically carry a small one for my point and shoot, but don’t often use the larger one. The two that I bought are the Pelican Case 1400 Dry Box and the Pelican 1020 Micro Case. (Note: The links go to NRS. As of Jan ’12, they are on sale!) The 1400 has enough space for my camera and a couple of lenses. The 1020 fits my point and shoot perfectly.

The Verdict: Get a hard case if you need the best protection, quick access and have larger hatches in your kayak or are a canoeist, and if you don’t mind the extra weight.

Softcore Camera Protection

Combining a drybag, such as SealLine’s 5-liter Nimbus Dry Bag, with foam from an old sleeping pad yields a compact, lightweight, protective and waterproof camera bag — although no drybag is dry forever, they all leak when left emerged for extended periods. You can see an example of homemade paddling in the picture to the right. Cut a round piece that fits in the bottom of the dry bag and then cut a piece that wraps completely around the circumference of the dry bag. You insert the camera lens down and then put your shoulder strap on top of the camera to protect the LCD screen.

This arrangement makes it easy to pack the camera into a kayak with smaller hatches — it even fits into a day hatch — or into a portage pack and it’s much lighter than a Pelican case. It also easily slides under the bungee cords on a kayak’s deck. To use this case, keep it at your feet or under the seat in your canoe or between your knees in a kayak. When you’re ready for a picture, pull it out, unroll the top, put the strap around your neck and then pull the camera out.

The downside is that it takes longer to get the camera out of the bag than it does with a Pelican case. The other downside is that it feels a little fiddly in waves trying to get the camera out of the bag and it feel worse getting the camera back in.

The Verdict: Get a soft case if you need an easy-to-pack, lightweight case for your camera.

Waterproof Camera Case

Waterproof camera cases, such as Aquapac’s SLR Case or their Mini Camera Case, protect your camera from water by enclosing it within a completely waterproof case and let you shoot through a piece of plexiglass in front of your lens. These are the ideal solution for situations when you need to shoot while water splashes around your camera. Aquapacs cases are rated to 15 feet underwater.

To use, you insert your camera, close the unique snap closure and shoot away. It couldn’t be easier. In rough water, you know that you can get the shot without getting your camera wet. You can also use these underwater. I’ve used the Mini Camera Case while snorkeling. It was great fun. On the water, just let the strap hang around your neck (watch out for entrapment issues).

The downside to these camera cases is that they don’t provide protection against bumps and you need to make sure that you don’t scratch the plexiglass lens element.

The Verdict: Get a waterproof camera case if you need to take pictures underwater or in rough water.

Waterproof Camera

If you don’t want to mess with a DSLR or high-end point-and-shoot, because you don’t need that quality of images from your trips, then consider a waterproof camera, such as Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS3 Rugged/Waterproof Digital Camera. While the image quality doesn’t add up to that of other point-and-shoots, and it falls flat when compared to point-and-shoots that can shoot RAW or even the lowest-end DSLR, waterproof cameras let you get the picture without having to worry about cases.

To use, just clip the strap to your life vest and tuck the camera into a pocket. To shoot, take it out and press the button. It couldn’t be easier. The other nice feature about these cameras is that you can attach a tripod to your kayak and film yourself doing rolls. While not doing rolls, I used a suction cup tripod from Kayalu Gear to make the video at the bottom of my Boundary Waters Routes: Sag and Seagull Loop trip report.

The Verdict: Get a waterproof camera if you don’t want to mess with camera cases.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: How to Pack Camera Gear For Kayaking and Canoeing

Understanding Kayak Weathercocking

When you paddle forward, water flows around your kayak. Near the bow, the layers of water remains relatively parallel to each other as you paddle along. At some point along your hull, the flow switches from laminar flow, which is water that basically hugs your hull shape, to turbulent flow. Near the stern of your kayak, the flow separates from the hull and causes an eddy near at the stern of your kayak.

The different flows around your kayak create the pressure differences that cause kayak weathercocking. Near the bow of the kayak, the water is relatively undisturbed and maintains high pressure. As the flow continues along the hull, the turbulence creates less pressure and near the stern where the eddies form, you have the least amount of pressure. So, when the wind blows equally across the length of your hull, the high pressure near the bow helps anchor the bow into the water against the wind, and the hull areas near low pressure get pushed away from the direction of the wind. This cause the bow to appear to turn into the wind. Check out the kayak weathercocking diagram below.

Counteracting Kayak Weathercocking

There are two ways to counteract kayak weathercocking, either with equipment or technique.

Equipment

For equipment use either a skeg or a rudder.

A skeg extends and retracts from the bottom of your kayak. It works by moving into high pressure and adding surface area. Imagine all the turbulence around the back of your kayak. The further away you get from that turbulence, the less there is. So, when you drop a skeg, the deeper it goes the less turbulence it encounters. When it reaches higher pressure, it counteracts the kayak weathercocking. Additionally, it provides more underwater surface area that the wind must push against, which helps stop weathercocking. You vary the depth of the skeg until you reach the point where weathercocking stops. Pushing it deeper may cause leecocking, which is the opposite of weathercocking.

A rudder drops down behind your kayak, and you can use it to help turn you boat. For kayak weathercocking, it works similarly to a skeg in that it provides extra surface area and can contact higher pressure, but because it doesn’t drop as deep as a skeg, it’s unlikely to encounter as much higher pressure. A rudder can also redirect the flow, which works against weathercocking. If your kayak is turning into wind from the right, give it a bit of left rudder and hold it in a position that stops the weathercocking.

Techniques

The two main techniques for counteracting kayak weathercocking are edging the kayak or using sweep strokes.

To edge a kayak, you dip the windward side of your kayak towards the water by shifting your weight onto your windward side buttocks and lifting with the opposite knee. When edged your kayak creates an underwater profile that helps it turn away from the lower side. So, in the case of wind coming from the right, you dip the right side of your kayak towards the water.

To use sweep strokes, you do sweep strokes on the windward side of the kayak and vertical strokes on the opposite side.

While both techniques work, over the long haul it’s tiring and sometimes frustrating. Having a skeg or rudder is more enjoyable.

Kayak Weathercocking vs. Tracking

Kayaks with strong tracking aren’t immune to the pressure differences that cause kayak weathercocking. But because most strong tracking kayaks don’t respond well to sweeps without significant edging. This can make it difficult to counteract weathercocking by techniques alone. A strong tracking kayak may need a rudder or skeg.

Ideally, you want to have a kayak that responds to both techniques and equipment to counteract kayak weathercocking. To get one, you must also account for a hull’s ability to respond to kayak weathercocking in an efficient way. A hull that allows a paddler to easily correct weathercocking, either through corrective strokes or edging, feels less affected even if it weathercocks more easily than a kayak that doesn’t respond well to edging or corrective strokes, which might be the cause with a kayak that has strong tracking.

Learn more about laminar and turbulent flow in John Winter’s The Shape of the Canoe.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: Kayak Weathercocking vs. Tracking

Sea Kayak Compartments and Storage Spaces

A sea kayak with bulkheads and watertight cargo compartments that are accessed through hatches make packing much easier than trying to pack a kayak without bulkheads and hatches. Most modern sea kayaks include these features, so it shouldn’t be an issue for you; if your kayak doesn’t have bulkheads and hatches consider an upgrade. An example of a kayak with bulkheads and hatches is Wildernes Systems Tempest 170

Typically, a sea kayak will have a front cargo compartment and a rear cargo compartment. Some kayaks, often British-style, have a day hatch, which is an offset hatch behind the cockpit. A bulkhead separates the day hatch from the rear cargo compartment. New models might have a glove compartment, which is a small hatch in front of the cockpit that drops into a small compartment between your knees.

Other places that you can use to pack gear include the front and rear decks under bungee cords. Some paddlers like to carry a bag strapped to their front decks, which they can access quickly. The problem with carrying gear above deck is that it raises the kayak’s center of gravity which makes the boat less stable, wind can catch the gear easily and make the kayak side slip or affect directional stability, and it’s prone to wash away in waves. Try to pack all your gear below deck, which reserves your deck for a spare paddle, compass and a rear deck mounted tow rope.

Other places that might work to pack gear include the area between the front bulkhead and your foot pegs, behind the seat and under the deck if you use a knee tube or an Under Deck Bag. The gap between an Under Deck Bag and the kayak’s deck fits a bilge pump perfectly.

Sea Kayak Trim and Balance

Before shoving dry bags into the kayak, consider a kayak’s balance and trim. Side-to-side balance is how level a kayak sits in the water from side to side. Packing the starboard side of a kayak more heavily than the port causes the kayak to list to the starboard, which is annoying but also can cause the kayak to turn away from the heavy side. Ideally, when packing the boat balance the weight equally, so that the kayak sits level in the water without anyone in it. A kayak’s trim is the difference between the draft at the bow and stern. Each kayak has a design trim at which it performs as designed, and when off that trim a kayak can become squirrelly or unpredictable. Typically, the manufacturer places the seat so that the paddler’s center of gravity aligns with the kayak’s center of buoyancy, which keeps the kayak trimmed correctly. If loaded bow or stern heavy, the kayak will shift its trim towards the heavier end. To keep it trimmed correctly, pack the kayak with equal weight distribution. If you like math equations, use this one:

CWB * DFCB = CWS * DFCB

where

CWB = Cargo (dry bag) weight at bow
CWS = Cargo (dry bag) weight at stern
DFCB = Dry bag distance from the kayak’s center of buoyancy

Some kayaks are more forgiving than other when packing for trim. For example, a NDK Explorer can handle 40 percent of the weight in the bow and 60 percent in the stern without any real issues. The only way to find out if your kayak handles uneven weight distribution is through testing. Until you test it, load it evenly.

Where to Pack the Gear

As long as the weight is kept equal, pack gear anywhere, but ideally pack it to keep the center of gravity low and the swing weight of the boat centered. Do this by packing heavier gear low and centered in the kayak and away from the ends. This will make the boat more stable and it’s easier to keep things trimmed — a heavier item packed far in the bow causes the bow to sink more than the same weight packed just fore of the front bulkhead. For example, heavy tent poles might sit along the keel of the kayak and heavier gear such as food closer to the bulkheads. Try to think of packing a sea kayak like a seesaw; a heavy object in one end will cause a lighter object in the other to rise.

Consider several principles that inform you how to pack a sea kayak:

1. A balanced and trimmed boat paddles better.
2. Weight low in the boat increases stability.
3. Weight in the ends makes the boat harder to control.
4. Keep gear you need on-the-water readily available by packing it near the hatches.
5. Pack emergency gear, so you don’t need to access a hatch to retrieve it.

One way to pack a sea kayak, separates gear for camping into one compartment and food and gear used during the day into another. Using this system, you pack your sleeping bag, sleeping pad, tent, spare clothing, camp shoes, Ikea bag, electronics and maybe your pots and pans and stove in the front compartment. Because you’ll only need these items in camp, you only need to move your spare paddle once you make camp. Keep any magnetic items away from your compass. In the day hatch, you carry a first aid kit, emergency repair gear, extra drinking water, helmet, rain gear and camera gear. In the stern, you carry a water filter and food. In the Under Deck Bag, you carry flares, gloves and a neoprene hood. Your pump goes above the Under Deck Bag and the paddle float gets strapped to the back of the back rest. If carrying less food (or you eat it) or lightweight or no camera gear, then you need to move clothing and other items to the stern to trim the boat correctly.

Within the front compartment, stuff your sleeping pad into the tip of the kayak and follow the pad with your sleeping bag. Any electronics, such as a netbook fit flat against the bulkhead. The tent poles sit on the keel with one end against the bulkhead. The tent body and spare clothing fit side by side in the remaining space. Stuff your camp shoes into the hatch near the hatch cover and stuff your Ikea bag in there also. Usually, you’ll have enough room to put your cooking gear ontop of your tent or clothing bag. In the stern compartment, stuff one food bag up against the bulkhead and then the remaining two side-by-side. The water filter goes next to the skeg. Evenly arrange the gear in the day hatch, but make it easy to access your camera if needed.

How to Pack a Sea Kayak on the Beach

On the beach, pull or carry your kayak near to the water. Then lay out all your dry bags according to the suggestion or try to balance the weight equally between the stern and bow compartments. Then start stuffing. You’ll find that every kayak packs a little differently, and that a specific order might make packing easier. Dry bag color helps establish bag locations and orders. For example, you might pack everything in the front hatch into green and orange bags. The stern might have everything in blues, and the day hatch might have reds. Yellow bags migrate between the bow and stern based on remaining food.  Try to remember that order each time you reload. The first time that you load your kayak, do it near a calm pond and test for trim and balance. Also, paddle the boat to see what it feels like loaded. Kayaks paddle differently when loaded and the roll differently as well. Test it before you head out on a kayak camping trip.

In How to Pack a Sea Kayak Part 3: What to Bring learn what items to bring and suggested maximum weights of the items to keep paddling efficiency and save wear and tear on your body.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: How to Pack a Sea Kayak Part 2: Packing Your Kayak

Canoe Equipment

• Canoe: Consider taking something fast if you’re trying to cover long distances. During the fall, the short days can even make a 10 to 15 mile day feel long.
• 2 bent shaft paddles: Sanborn Canoe Company hand makes the Gunflint) 14-Degree Bent Shaft canoe paddle from western red and white cedar. It’s wider blade gives you a powerful stroke to power your way to camp during the short days of fall. It weighs only 17 oz. so it won’t tire you out.
• 1 spare paddle: A spare paddle is a backup in case you break one of your main paddles.
• Seat pads – In the shoulder seasons, it’s cold, so having a little padding under your butt feel warm. I like Cooke Custom Sewing’s seat pads.
• Plastic bailer
• Portage packs: To carry all your gear, you need a pack that fits into a canoe. Portage packs are designed to sit low in a canoe and conform to a canoe’s shape. With the right portage pack, you can get all your and your partner’s gear into one pack. On the portages, you carry the canoe and your partner carries the pack, which allows you to complete a portage in a single carry. Read reviews of a Duluth Pack or a Cooke Custom Sewing pack.

Canoe Camping Checklist

This canoe camping checklist is divided into categories representing rooms in your house. On any camping trip, you need a bedroom (tent), a kitchen (stove), a closest of clothing, a den to keep your books and miscellaneous stuff.

 Bedroom

• Tent or tarp: If bringing a tent also bring a lightweight tarp as a place to sit under to get out of the rain. Consider a lightweight tarp such as Integral Design’s SilTarp 2. Link to review.
• Sleeping bag:You want to be warm at night and because it gets dark early and stay dark until late in the morning, you end up spending a lot of time in your sleeping bag. Often, you spend time reading or hanging out in the sleeping bag to stay warm. You want a 15 to 20 degree Fahrenheit bag. The North Face Cat’s Meow is the gold standard of synthetic sleeping bags and will keep you warm on long fall nights.
• Sleeping pad (full length): A full length sleeping pad keeps your entire body off of the cold ground. This helps your sleeping bag keep you warm.
• Waterproof stuff sack: Use a lightweight waterproof stuff sack to keep your sleeping bag in while traveling. If water gets into your portage pack, the stuff sack will keep your bag dry.

Kitchen

• Stove: Whatever stove you bring make sure that it works in the cold weather. In warmer seasons, it saves weight to take an alcohol and canister stoves, but those can fail as the temperatures drops. Consider a multi-fuel or white gas stove such as MSR’s WhisperLite Internationale.
• Fuel: Because of warm drinks and a desire for warm breakfast boost the amount of fuel you normally take. A good rule of thumb is 2.5 oz. of white gas per person.
• Cook kit: Because of the shorter days including a larger cook kit, which allows you to cook multiple courses or items instead of a one-pot meal in your canoe camping checklist, gives you something more to do while sitting around in the dark.
• Bowl for each person
• Spoons for each person
• Insulated mug for each person: An insulated mug keeps hot chocolate and Bailey’s warm while you sip it in front of the fire. The Sea to Summit Delta InsulMug weighs just 4 oz. and keeps16 oz. of hot beverage warm.
• Platy for each person or a 1-liter water bottle.
• Water filter: Whatever water filter you bring keep it from freezing during nights that drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit by putting it inside a plastic bag and sleeping with it.
• Soap, small scrubby: Use biodegradable soap.
• Fire starter: Fire is important during the cold season when you might need to fight off hypothermia from a long cold day or an unexpected dunk. Carry two types, and consider a third for your emergency kit.
• Bear bag system

Den

• First aid kit and repair kit: The link is to an example lightweight first aid kit.
• Map for every canoe
  
• Compass for every canoe
  
• Small saw (optional): A saw is a luxury item on any canoe camping checklist. It allows you to cut larger limbs off of a dead and down tree. The Sven Folding Saw weighs 15 oz. so it’s not light, but it can help you keep warm on a chilly night.
• Headlamp: Headlamps provide hands free illumination, which keeps your hands free to tend the fire, cook or hold a book.
• Sunglasses
• Good book: Maybe The Fat Paddler.
• Reading Glasses and repair kit (if needed)

Bathroom

• Toiletries
• TP and hand sanitizer

Closet

• Quick drying pants: If you go in or if it rains or if the dew wets out the bottom of your pants, you want something that dries quickly. Wintergreen makes the best canoeing pants.
• T-shirt or long sleeve shirt: Bring a quick dry shirt to wear in camp and during the day.
• Synthetic or wool long underwear tops and bottoms: These you’ll wear on cold days or around camp at night. If you decide to bring a drysuit on your canoe camping checklist, bring a second pair and wear them under your drysuit. The pair under the drysuit will start to smell bad quickly, so you’ll want another pair for camp. Bring mid-weight or heavy-weight. It’s too cold for light-weight. Terramar makes durable and warm long underwear.
• Synthetic underwear
• Synthetic-filled or fleece jacket: Patagonia’s Nano Puff Jacket weighs only 12 oz., but it’s warm and compressible. You’ll be grateful for packing one on the cold spring or fall nights. Especially, if the snow starts to fly.
• Waterproof/breathable rain jacket: On the less expensive end, Marmot’s PreCip Rain Jacket is lightweight, waterproof and packs up into a small space. The more expensive but bombproof The North Face Gore-tex Mountain Light Rain Jacket provides all weather protection in a jacket that moves with you.
• Waterproof/breathable rain pants
• Windshirt: Despite breathable fabrics, rain jackets can still feel balmy. A windshirt blocks the wind and breaths better, which makes dry and windy days pleasant. Marmot’s DriClime Windshirt combines a windproof, breathable and water-repellent exterior with a warm moderate weight long underwear interior. It’s the most versatile jacket on the market and every canoeist should own one.
• 2 pairs of synthetic socks
• Baseball cap or paddling hat
• Fleece stocking cap: You’ll wear this around camp and to bed at night.
• Fleece gloves
• Waterproof stuff sack: Carry any clothing not worn in a waterproof stuff sack. At night, you can use the stuff sack as a pillow.

Personal Paddling Equipment List

• Life Jacket
• Whistle
• Neoprene gloves: Bring neoprene gloves to keep your hands warm during the cold days. For some advice, read this cold water gloves review. Then include them on your canoe camping checklist.
• Drysuit: You should dress for the water temp and during the shoulder seasons of early spring and fall, the water is cold. Consider wearing a wetsuit or a drysuit.
• Knee-high rubber Tingley overshoes: Wear these over your hiking boots to keep the boots dry. They also keep your feet warm!
• Hiking shoes or tennis shoes

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: Fall and Early Spring Canoe Camping Checklist – Extend Your Paddling Season

Note: If you paddle in water colder than 60 degree Fahrenheit (15.5 Celsius), then you need a wetsuit or a drysuit. I’ve covered that before in this article.

• Tow rope: Believe it or not but your paddling partner may get too tired, too sick or too hurt to make it back to the put-in. Most beginners don’t believe something like that could happen, but it does. I’ve been there and experienced it. It’s a bad place to be in trying to figure out how to get someone home. Out of all the kayaking accessories, the only one that’s going to help you get your friend back to the car is a tow rope. Tow ropes come in three flavors: fanny-pack style, lifevest mounted and boat mounted. For a beginner, buy a fanny-pack style tow rope. They’re versatile, because you can trade them off when you get tired of towing. You don’t need to modify your boat and you don’t need a special lifevest. I like North Water Sea Tec Towline. It’s expensive, but it features everything you need and nothing that you don’t. It’ll last you years.
• Knife: Imagine being trapped upside down in your kayak, because a rope, net, fishing line or something else is keeping you there. Now imagine your loved one or your kid trapped in the same way. How do you release them from the rope, net or fishing line if you don’t have a knife? Good luck. The Gerber River Shorty Knife is the standard knife for kayakers. It has a blunt point to help prevent stabbing wounds or holes in drysuits. It mounts to a lash tab on your lifevest which keeps it ready-to-go. The blade is sharp out of the box and its fully serrated edge cuts quickly through a rope.
• Flares: Aerial flares come in handy during an emergency. You let one off and nearby boat traffic may see them and come to your rescue. In some areas, the Coast Guard requires you to carry flares.
• VHF Radio: When you want to communicate to nearby boat or ship traffic, the only good way to do it is with a VHF radio. These two-way radios allow you contact other boaters or other members of your kayaking group. They also allow you to communicate an emergency to the Coast Guard. I like Icom IC-M72 Waterproof VHF Marine Radio. It fits in my lifevest and stays there. I’ve had it for about five or six years, and it’s still going despite staying in the pocket even during rolling. Learn How to Use a VHF Radio.
• Strobe light: During an emergency at night, rescuers need to find you. By mounting a powerful strobe on your lifevest, you can help them see you from far away. Princeton Tec Aqua Strobe projects up to 3 miles away. It’s waterproof and comes with everything you need to mount it to your vest.
• First Aid Kit & Emergency Kit: When something goes wrong or someone gets cut or hurt or if your boat gets a hole, you need to fix it in the field. I suggest carrying first aid and emergency gear. You can buy kits, but I make my own custom First Aid Kits and Ditch Kits.
• Signal mirror: You may have noticed that many of the kayaking accessories on this list deal with emergencies. The reason they do is because if you’re cast into the water and can’t get to shore unless you get someone’s attention, you’re as good as dead. A signal mirror works during the day to catch the attention of passing aircraft. You flash it at them. The ACR Hot Shot Signal Mirror features a sight that allows you to site it accurately at the craft. It’s also durable and comes with a whistle.
• Flashlight: If you get caught out at night, you’re required by the Coast Guard to have a white light that you can show another vessel. I suggest a headlamp.
• Paddling shoes: Sure you can wear sandals or your hiking shoes, but those suck in a kayak. And, sandals can get stuck on the foot peddles which could entrap you after a capsize (See Knife above). Look for simple neoprene shoes with enough thickness in the sole to pad your feet when you walk across rocky shorelines. I like NRS’s Comm-3 Wetshoe, but you have many options.

Stuff you might already own and should carry include:

• Sunblock: Some kayaking accessories such as sunblock are the same as you’d use anywhere else. Protect your skin from the sun coming down from the sky and reflecting up from the water. If you haven’t paddled before, you might not realize how much sun reflects off the water. Make sure to apply plenty of sunblock to your nose.
• Hat: Keeps the sun off of your head. On a hot, sunny day, you’ll be glad you have one. Plus, you can dip it in the water to cool down; the wet hat acts like air conditioning.
• Water bottle: Hydrate.
• Sunglasses: These protect your eyes from all the sun reflecting off the water into your face.
• Bug spray: Yep, bugs.
• Cell phone (in a waterproof case): On the water, a cell phone is not an emergency device. It might function in that way or it might not. You’re better off with a VHF radio, but if you have a cell phone and are in an area with coverage, you might want to bring it along in a waterproof case.

This list and my other Kayaking Accessories for Beginners list doesn’t cover everything that you can get, but it covers the main bases.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: More Kayaking Accessories for Beginners

To fix that second, you can take a sea kayaking class, or you can take it on faith that you need these items and then learn how to use them. Because kayaks are so expensive, spending more money on kayaking accessories is a hard pill to swallow, but you need the items so budget for it. See, kayaking is inherently dangerous. Humans aren’t water creatures. We’re not designed to live in the water, and we have a hard time learning to survive in the water. Anytime the water drops below 60 degree Fahrenheit (15.5 Celsius), you run into the risks of cold water paddling and need a wetsuit or a drysuit. And anytime you paddle beyond swimming distance from shore, you risk not making it back if you make a mistake. When you add wind, waves, weather conditions, currents and the area where the water meets the shore, you end up with a lot of situations that are dangerous, and you might not understand or even realize the danger until it’s too late. It’s best to prepare for these situation by having the proper equipment and knowing how to use it.

On Twitter, I recently asked the question, “What kayaking accessories would you recommend to a beginner who just bought a new kayak?” I got responses from many seasoned kayakers ranging from whitewater paddlers, adventurers and guides. All their suggestions centered on the basic items required for survival in dangers, or items for comfort that beginners might not think of. Many had used these items to survive. What struck me was how similar the answers were. On that note, I put together a basic kayaking accessories list. In the list, I’ll link to the item and also briefly explain how you use it or why you’d want to buy it.

Basic Kayaking Accessories

• Kayaking-specific lifevest: Kayaking-specific lifevests differ from others in several ways. The main differences are a higher back that doesn’t interfere with the kayak’s seat, a snug fit so you don’t get rubbed wrong when paddling and comfort designed for the movements in kayaking. Some models include multiple pockets that you can stuff with snacks, a camera, VHF radio, etc. Kayaking vests also include tabs that allow you to lash on a knife, a strobe light. Some include tow belt attachments. I like Kokatat and Stohlquist.
• Nice paddle: Buy something better than the cheapest that you can find. The nicer the paddle, the more enjoyable your outings become, because they’re lighter, they swing back and forth easier. Just try a high-end carbon fiber paddle once and you’ll understand. Don’t skimp and don’t buy a paddle that’s too long for you. Many salespeople that fall into the first problem tend to size the paddle too large. It’s the right size when you place the paddle vertically and can reach up and wrap your fingers comfortably around the paddles end. Don’t stretch when doing this.
• Bilge Pump: When you get water in your kayak, you need to get it out. This might be after a capsize. It might be from splashes or boat wake or waves (see spray skirt). In a canoe, you usually use a bucket, but buckets don’t work well in a kayak, because it’s hard to get them to fill in the small area, plus it’s hard to get shallow water out of the boat. That little bit of the water sloshes around in the kayak and splashes against the back of your legs, which feels annoying. It also makes the boat less stable. The Beckson Bilge Pump is one of the best and the one brand I use. It takes a beating and pumps quickly. You’ll need to buy a foam float for it too.
• Paddle float: A paddle float is an inflatable bag that you use during a self rescue, i.e. you fell out of your kayak (wet exit) and need to get back in. One way to get back into a kayak is to inflate a paddle float around one blade on your paddle and then use the paddle as an outrigger to help you get back in. NRS Sea Kayak Paddle Float features a dual chamber, which means if one side fails, you have another. It also has a large mouth that’s easy to slip a paddle into.
• Sponge (optional): Water accumulates in the cockpit and a sponge helps get it out. It also helps get water out of a leaky bulkhead or hatch.
• Whistle: Whistles can help other boat traffic hear and see you. You can use them to communicate to other paddlers, and they’re required by the Coast Guard in some waters. You can also use them to get attention during an emergency. I suggest ACR Hot Shot Signal Mirror and Whistle Combo, because it uses a whistle that doesn’t require a floating ball (if the ball gets wet and sticks, it doesn’t work). The Combo also includes a signaling mirror and foam float for just a few more bucks than a whistle alone. Attach the whistle to your lifevest.
• Spray Skirt: You wear a spray skirt around your waist. When you sit in the kayak, the skirt seals the cockpit opening and keeps water out of the boat. If you’re going to paddle anything larger than a backyard pond or in any weather other than warm and sunny, you need to buy a skirt. I suggest buying a neoprene skirt for ocean travel. You can get by with a nylon skirt if you plan on paddling in flat water.
• Flotation (if you kayak doesn’t have bulkheads): The shocking news is that kayaks don’t float very well when filled with water. Some manufacturers address the problem by adding bulkheads and hatches to create air and watertight storage areas. If you come out of the boat and the cockpit fills with water, the bulkheads keep the ends dry. Without bulkheads, the boat fills with water and makes rescue and recovery difficult even for experienced paddlers. To help prevent the problem in boats, often recreational kayaks, buy and use float bags. NRS Standard Kayak Flotation Bags come in multiple sizes to fit most kayaks. Buy one for the front and the back of the kayak. You want a bag that fills all the free area in each part of your kayak.
• Dry Bags: To keep your gear dry while on the water, you need a waterproof container. I suggest bringing at least two bags on every trip. One bag carries spare clothing and the other contains your wallet, cell phone and other items that you might normally carry. When packing a kayak, it’s much easier to find space for smaller dry bags than large ones. For your wallet and other small items, consider a five liter bag. For the rest, buy 10 liter bags. Both Sea-to-Summit and SealLine make great dry bags.
• Rescue sling (stirrup): When you get tired from trying to get back into the boat and failing multiple times, you need help. A rescue sling such as North Water Sea Tec Rescue Stirrup can help you get in by giving you something to step on. You wrap the sling around your cockpit coaming, step on the sling, and then get into the boat. It can work in conjunction with a paddle float rescue or when you’re rescuing someone else.
• Compass and map: Some waterways are confusing. You need a map and compass to figure them out. I mount one on my kayak and put another simple baseplate compass in my lifevest. Learn how to use them in these Navigation articles.

These are just a few of the many kayaking accessories that you can buy, but for calm waters that you’ll learn on, they’ll get you by. You need to master the rescue items and that requires practice and probably a lesson. In More Kayaking Accessories for Beginners, I cover even more items that you’ll want to buy. Many I consider mandatory for paddling on large bodies of water such as the Great Lakes, oceans and big rivers like the Mississippi.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: Kayaking Accessories for Beginners

Sub-5 Ounce Cook Kit List

• T’s B Side Burner Stove – 0.33
• Spark Lite Fire Starter – 0.17
• Snowpeak 600 Mug – 2.8
• GSI Foon – 0.3
• Hot lips – 0.07
• Foil lid – 0.01
• Wind Screen – 0.2
• Fuel Bottle – 0.36
• Clip – 0.03
• Plastic Lid 0.35

TOTAL – 4.62 oz.

The turn-off for some people might be the size of the mug. It only holds up to 20 oz. of fluid. If you’re just heating solo dehydrated meals, then that’s big enough, but it’d be pretty hard to cook anything inside the mug other than oatmeal, ramen and instant products. The stove brings 7 oz. of fluid to boil in 4 minutes using 0.34 fl. oz. of alcohol. It can hold twice that much fuel when you need to bring more water to a boil. The GSI Foon folds up and fits inside the mug. To save another 0.1 oz., you could switch to a Light My Fire Spork, which weighs 0.2 oz. It wouldn’t fit into the mug.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: Lightweight Sub-5 Ounce Cook Kit

On the Kayak’s Front or Rear Deck

It’s best to carry your spare on the deck, because if you break a paddle, it’s easier to get to than if you carried a four piece in your hatches. Because most kayaks have bungees designed to carry a paddle on both the front or the back deck, you can carry it on either. Both have advantages. On the front deck, the paddle is easier to get to, you can monitor it, but it’ll often throw up spray into your face and surf tends to push it out from under the bungees. On the back deck, it’s more protected in the surf, stays out of the way, keeps the foredeck open for maps, etc., but it’s hard to grab and hard to monitor. Your spare could float away without you knowing. I always carry mine on the front deck.

How to Carry It

There are lots of ways to carry and attach a paddle to the deck, but the three most common solutions involve fabric sleeves, PVC pipe or just deck bungees. The first two solutions protect the paddle and the kayak’s gel coat from scratches, and can make it easier to pull the paddle out when needed. Kayakers that use PVC pipes claim that it stops the paddles from coming out in the surf. To see the many fabric and PVC pipe solutions, check out Gnarlydog’s post. For a commercial version, check out Northwater’s Paddle Britches.

Personally, I’m a fan of using bungee cord. I like it for a couple of reasons. First, it’s light. Second, it’s versatile. My current setup includes three parts. I use the foredeck bungees to hold the blade to the deck. I like to face the back of my spare paddle’s blade to the sky and the spoon towards the deck. This helps prevent scratching on the boat’s deck and the paddles blade, but I think scratching is just the norm. I use the bungees in front of the hatch and compass to hold the paddle’s shaft. I use a third bungee with a plastic cliff to hold down the middle of the shaft.

For the shaft bungee, my kayak features three plastic padeyes. I run a long length of bungee through all three. I tie double knots on the outside padeyes to prevent the bungee from pulling through, and pull a bight of bungee from the center padeye. I slide a plastic cordlock over the bight and slide it down to the padeye. When I secure the paddle shaft, I loosen the cordlock, wrap a loop of bungee around the shaft, and then tighten the cordlock. See the picture.

Even though I feel that the kayak’s foredeck bungee and the shaft bungee holds the paddle tight against the boat, I picked up a trick last year from ACA Coastal Kayaking Level 5 Advanced Open Water Instructor Trainer Educator Sam Crowley. To further secure his spare paddle, he girth hitches a loop of bungee cord with a plastic snap hook on it to one side of the kayak’s perimeter deck line over his kayak’s front hatch. Then clips the snap hook to the other side’s perimeter deck line. This further secures the paddle. To get at the hatch, you just unclip the snap hook. See the picture.

Preventing Deck Scratches

With any spare paddle setup, you’re not going to prevent deck scratches on a composite boat. It’s just going to happen. When you accept that, you’ll feel better. But, if you like to keep your composite boat looking shining and new, consider covering the deck areas susceptible to scratches with Helicopter Guard Tape, which is the tape used to protect the edges of helicopter blades from damage. It’s tough and clear. Keep in mind that any tape you cover your deck with will help prevent the gel coat from fading, which means when you peel it off, the gel coat will be darker under the tape than in surrounding areas. That’s not a big deal if you always use tape.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: How to Carry a Spare Kayak Paddle

Defining Cold Water Paddling

According to the American Canoe Association, a cold water situation occurs anytime the water temperature drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or when the combined air and water temperature is less than 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 degrees Celsius). In temperatures such as these paddlers need to dress for the water temperature, because an accidental swim could quickly kill.

There are two rules that apply to these temperatures when unprotected. The first is the 5-50-50 rule and the second is the 1-10-1 rule. In the first rule, a paddler has about five minutes to swim 50 yards in 50 degree water, and he has 50/50 chance of surviving. The second rule states that an unprotected swimmer will suffer cold shock for about one minute, then have about 10 minutes until he can no longer function until finally succumbing to hypothermia an hour later assuming he doesn’t drown before then.

Lifesaving Society Facts

According to the Cold Water Boot Camp, in 2004, of the 130 people who died during boating in Canada, a nation that has cold water almost year round:

94 percent died in cold water.

• 60% drowned in water under 50 degree Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius)
• 34% drowned in water between 50 to 68 degree Fahrenheit (10 to 20 degrees Celsius)

86 percent didn’t wear a lifevest.

• Only 12% were properly wearing a lifejacket
• 2% were improperly wearing a lifejacket

Most were within swimming distance from the shore or safety.

• 43% were less than 7 feet from safety*
• 66% were less than 50 feet from safety*

*shore, boat, dock, etc.

74 percent ended up in the water when thrown over or when the boat capsized.

• 26% fell or were thrown overboard
• 48% were in a boat that capsized or was swamped

Of those identified more swimmers died than non-swimmers.

• Non-swimmer = 29%
• Weak = 15%
• Average = 12%
• Strong = 10%
• Not identified = 34%

It’s clear that swimming ability and proximity to the shore  doesn’t guarantee survival, but dressing for immersion and wearing a lifevest can increase the odds of survival. Always wear a lifevest.

Layering for Cold Water

Like in other outdoor sports, paddling utilizes clothing layering to regulate body temperatures. Layering is thinking of clothing as a system that works to transport moisture away from the skin (neoprene works differently), to keep warmth near the body and to protect from the elements. Layers are added or subtracted as needed to account for varied temperatures. There are three different types of layers.

Base layer: A synthetic or wool layer that moves sweat away from the skin and keeps the body dry. Think long underwear. When using a wetsuit, this layer is skipped, because a wetsuit works best when directly against the skin.

Mid layer: A warm garment that doesn’t retain water, such as fleece. Vary the thickness or number of garments based on conditions.

Outer layer: A layer designed to keep wind and water away from the other layers. Think a paddling jacket. A drysuit is an outer layer.

Dress For Immersion

Dressing for immersion is the practice of wearing clothing designed to handle the water temperature over the air temperature. The water temperature is more risky, because it saps warmth away from the body quicker than air, so the paddler manages the greater risk by dressing for it. For example, if the water is 50 degrees Fahrenheit and the air is 80, a paddler would wear a drysuit and enough insulation to handle a long swim in the cold water.

Wetsuit Description

A wetsuit uses neoprene to trap and hold a thin layer of water near the body. The body heats up this layer, which keeps the paddler warm. The thicker the neoprene the warmer and less flexible it is. Full-body wetsuits are rated by two numbers, which looks like 4/3 or 3/2. The first number represents how thick the wetsuit’s torso is, and the second shows the thickness of the neoprene on the extremities. For more information read this article about wetsuits.

Generally, paddling wetsuits come without arms, such as the NRS Ultra John. The advantage is that the neoprene doesn’t restrict arm movement. The disadvantage is that they’re not as warm and cold fresh water can easily penetrate the arm holes. A full wetsuit, such as XCEL’s Infinity Full Wetsuit, keeps more water out and stays warmer at the expense of more restricted arm movements. Read about Keith Wikle’s experience using a full wetsuit for paddling.

Drysuit Description

A drysuit combines a waterproof fabric with neck, wrist and sometime ankle gaskets to keep the water completely away from the body. The gaskets seal tightly against body and keep the water from coming in. Most gaskets are latex, so paddlers allergic to latex need to stay away, and latex gaskets can fail catastrophically in the field — I had it happen on two expeditions.

A drysuit acts as a outer layer. It isn’t warm by itself. To make it warm, wear a base and mid layer. Drysuits tend to cost much more than a wetsuit. A quality drysuit, such as Kokatat’s Meridian drysuit, runs from $600 to $1100 while a wetsuit runs $100 to $400. After getting used to the gaskets, most paddlers find drysuits more comfortable.

Dressing for 70 Degree Water

Above 70 degree water doesn’t require a wetsuit or a drysuit unless the air is under 50 degrees. Wear a rash guard and have a paddling jacket or drytop ready if it gets chilly.

Dressing for 50 Degree to 70 Degree Water

At this range, a Farmer John or Jane wetsuit, one without arms, will be the most comfortable. Near the lower temperatures, especially when combined with colder air temps use a full body wetsuit or a drysuit. Over the wetsuit wear a paddling jacket or drytop. Have several mid layers available in a drybag to put on when it starts to get cold. In warm air temperatures, a drysuit will feel hot, and because it requires layers to keep the paddler warm when in the water, it tends to get very hot. In lower air temperatures, the drysuit feels like heaven. Consider carrying extra clothing in preparation for weather changes.

Dressing for 45 Degree to 55 Degree Water

Things get a bit more complicated at this level. A full 4/3 wetsuit or a drysuit will both suffice. Combine a paddling jacket or drytop with mid layers to make the wetsuit warm enough. With a drysuit, add base and mid layers to keep warm. Once in the water, the coldness will easily penetrate to the bone when lighter mid layers are worn. Also, at this temp, the hands, feet and head need protection. Many of the same items used for winter kayaking work at this temp.

Below 45 Degree Water

Wear a drysuit with a base layer and multiple mid layers, plus protect the hands, feet and head with items listed in the above linked winter kayaking article. Additionally, take time to read this winter kayaking article. Even if it isn’t winter, water temperatures below 45 feels brutal. Cold shock is a distinct possibility. Protect against it by wearing a diving hood. On a personal level, I’ve taught and guided for years on 45 degree water (Lake Superior). I’ve seen lots of panic after a person hits the water. I’ve seen cold shock. I’ve seen people quickly shut down. I’ve even had to pull a person out of a boat after he panicked and forgot how to get out by pulling a sprayskirt. Even with a drysuit and multiple layers, the cold water saps energy quickly. It kills quickly. Dress warm and paddle with friends who know how to quickly react to a capsize.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: Wetsuit vs. Drysuit for Paddling