The problem was that the repair involved cutting out the broken plastic and replacing it with fiberglass. I just didn’t have the time. Additionally, because the elite layup flexes like a wet noodle, spider cracks were forming along each bulkhead (It was suggested that these are pressure cracks from air expansion in the cargo holds, but the front is vented, which means there’s no expansion there, so that leaves the hull flex or stress riser problems from the bulkheads). Those spider cracks were chipping out, so I had a half dozen or so gelcoat chips on the bulkheads. With very little time before the trip, I couldn’t properly repair the problems, so I bought Marine-Tex Rapid Set Repair Epoxy and decided to see if it would work. This is my Marine-tex review.

Marine-Tex Claims

Marine-Tex claims that the Rapid Set Epoxy is a waterproof epoxy that cures in one hour in 72 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. It’s 1:1 ratio makes it easy-to-mix. It also claims that the epoxy provides a good bond for filling cracks and voids in fiberglass, wood, many hard plastics and several other materials. It can also be used to secure loose hardware and fasteners. The 2-oz. kit is the smallest and easiest to carry in an emergency repair kit. It comes as a set of two tubes. One contains the resin and the other contains the hardener.

Using Marine-Tex Repair Epoxy

To use the Marine-tex epoxy, you mix equal parts of paste from each tube together. Once mixed, it starts to harden. Marine-tex states that you have about five minutes of working time before it becomes too warm and needs to be discarded. I worked in smaller batches to ensure that I had time to spread the epoxy.

Before the trip, I used a popsicle stick to mix and spread the epoxy evenly into the cracks in my skeg box. I also built up the epoxy over the box lip to a height equal with the original gelcoat. For the gelcoat chips, I filled the chip even with the rest of the gelcoat. The paste is gray, so it stands out on a white hull. I wish it came in white. On my first application, I came back in about an hour and it felt like it setup, so I sanded it smooth. Sanding was easy.

My Marine-Tex Review and Experience in the Field

The gelcoat chip repairs held up for the 45 days I was on expedition, but the repair around the skeg box gave way after about 25 days. Considering that the skeg box saw rock hits, was dragged across beaches, filled with sand and rocks, and generally just beat up, I felt the repair epoxy worked well. If the plastic skeg box hadn’t cracked further, I think the repair would have held up the entire trip.

In the field, I re-repaired the NDK skeg box on a remote beach. I found a flat rock on which to mix the epoxy and a small twig to mix and apply the epoxy. The repair went on as easily in the field and it did at home. It wasn’t as smooth, and I didn’t have any sandpaper, but I was more worried about further damage to the plastic skeg box than appearance. The repair lasted the remainder of the trip. In addition to the SKUK skeg box repair, two patches holding my North Water Under Deck Bag to my kayak came loose. The epoxy held the patches for the trip and are still holding the patches.

Going on a Trip, Buy Some, It’s Worth It

Overall, I’m happy with the performance of the Marine Tex Rapid Set Repair Epoxy. It’s something that I can highly recommend for paddlers that use composite kayaks or canoes. I paid $18 at a marine supply store. It’s only $13 through Amazon and the above link.

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: Marine-Tex Review: Rapid Set Repair Epoxy for Emergency Repairs

Sailing canoe with parts made from MetiWeld.

With one piece left to make, I came across System Three’s MetlWeld quite by chance while browsing their online site. Up to this point, WEST System was the only major brand we commonly use that I knew supported metal bonding. So I was intrigued by System Three’s MetlWeld for bonding metal and other dissimilar materials. It’s designed specifically for this purpose and doesn’t need any sort of filler added, as is typically the case when modifying epoxy to make an adhesive. I ordered a small sample kit of their SilverTip products to try it out.

MetlWeld can be used at temperatures as low as 50F. However, at a room temperature of 67 it seemed rather stiff. I warmed the room up to 72 overnight in hopes of making it a little more pliable. That didn’t seem to make a lot of difference. Also, the hardener looked as though it had separated slightly from its filler so it seemed prudent to stir it before measuring out. Because it comes already thickened, mixing resin and hardener was a bit of a chore, even in the small amount I was using (2 oz.). I didn’t have a lot of confidence in its getting thoroughly mixed so I stirred a full five minutes before I felt it was ready to use. This is in contrast to the usual method of mixing thin resin and hardener for 1 – 2 mins. before adding filler. Since the epoxy is thoroughly mixed at that stage, stirring in filler is not so critical and the amount can be controlled to suit the application. The material that came with the sample kit didn’t include anything in the way of instructions for modifying MetlWeld’s thickness.

Also, because of its thickness, I found it virtually impossible to apply the MetlWeld without getting too much on. This particular application is inherently messy with quite a bit of squeeze out anyway, but the thickness of the MetlWeld added to it. Squeeze out typically takes place over about 15 – 20 mins. or more as thickened epoxy responds slowly to the clamping pressure. In this case, it became too tacky to manage after about 20 – 25 mins. and I was left with squeeze out that had set too firmly to wipe off. This isn’t serious but it does mean there’s more cleanup to be done after it’s cured. Other than that, cleanup was the same as with WEST System.

System Three says to let MetlWeld cure at least 48 hrs. (at 77F) before putting a load on the joint. It certainly bonds well to aluminum and makes a strong joint. But I was surprised to find I could bend the new piece by hand. I simply can’t do that with the pieces I bonded with WEST System. That doesn’t automatically mean MetlWeld has less ultimate strength than WEST System but it clearly isn’t as rigid. In this application ultimate strength is not an issue–the pieces are too lightly loaded. The MetlWeld job is probably rigid enough for my purposes. Whether or not there’s any difference in long term durability will have to wait until both have been in service for a while.

My take on it at this point is that MetlWeld is a reasonably adequate alternative for what I’m doing but I definitely prefer WEST System in this application. WEST System is easier to use, much easier to control (using that word loosely), ends up with a neater job and takes a heavier load before deforming.

There are a couple of caveats that should be noted here:
One, given the non-critical load on these fittings, I didn’t feel the need to pursue System Three’s technical support so this review is absent any helpful perspective they could provide.

The other is that this is a specific application done under one set of conditions and shouldn’t be taken as a general indication of MetlWeld’s suitability for bonding. In this case, it didn’t work nearly as well for me as WEST System.

Review by Charles E. Campbell
Reviewed: System Three MetlWeld
Date Reviewed: 5/10/06

This article originally appeared on PaddlingLight.com. Leave a comment and an opinion by clicking through here: Review: A Comparison of System Three MetlWeld and WEST System for Metal Bonding