How to Replace Kayak Deck Lines

This topic may seem like a nobrainer, but over and over I’ve seen this done incorrectly. So, while it may seem like a topic that doesn’t need explaining — after all, how hard is it to cut off the old deck line and put in new line — I’m going to tell you how to replace kayak deck lines the correct way.

How often do I replace the deck lines?

Part of your preventive maintenance schedule should be replacing your kayak’s deck line. When you notice that the line looks faded, it’s time to replace it. Also watch for fraying along the line, especially at each of the fittings. Or, if the line feels a little stiff replace it. You want fresh, unfrayed, supple line on your deck.

How to replace kayak deck lines

Obviously, you’ll need to remove the old deck line first. Don’t try to save the line and use it elsewhere. Exposure to the sun, water, and the wear and tear leave it weakened. Just cut it off and discard.

Next, you’ll find that you need to figure out how to replace the kayak deck lines. For most fittings, the 3/16-inch line won’t slide through the fittings easily. You should use kernmantle rope, and when using kernmantle rope, a simple trick helps make threading the rope easy.

Simple trick to make replacing lines easy

• Cut the line.
• Pull the core out about an inch past the cut in the sheath.
• Cut the core at that point.
• Then pull the sheath forward and you’ll end with a section of sheath that’s about an inch longer than the core.
• Put on a pair of leather gloves.
• Use a lighter to burn this end.
• While the sheath is still hot and melting, use your gloved fingers to form the end into a point. This point slides through the fittings easily.

Tie one end of your rope into a simple overhand knot leaving about an inch of rope extending past the knot. Slide the entire rope through the fitting closest to the cockpit with the knot holding the line in place. Then thread the rest of the fittings.

For safety, make sure you use the right tension

Before tying a knot on the opposite fitting from where you started, make sure the deck line tension feels correct. Most kayakers make the tension too tight and many manufactures ship with lines that are too tight.

For rescues and safety, the lines should be loose enough to easily slip your hands under. The reason is that especially with gloves on, you have to be able to slide your hands under the line and hold onto that line comfortably during rescues. Tight lines pinch your hand and can trap your hand under the line when the kayak jerks around. That can end in injury.

After you get the tension right, tie an overhand knot in the end and cut the line about an inch or so past the knot. Then burn the both ends so they don’t fray. Repeat for the other side of the kayak.

Add a paddle stash ball

Some kayakers like to thread and tie in place a perforated practice golf ball onto the deck line near the bow of the kayak. This makes it easy to slide a paddle under it to stash during a rescue. To do this, after you thread the fitting closest to the bow, tie an overhand knot just forward of center between the bow forward fitting and the next fitting. Then slide the ball on. Tie an overhand knot on the other side to hold the ball in place. The ball should be about centered between the two fittings.

Buy kayak deck line

• Black kayak deck line: 3/16-inch Kernmantle Marine Grade Static Line
• Reflective deck line: 3/16-inch Kernmantle Reflective Static Line
• Perforated practice golf balls: Perforated Practice Balls
• 1/4-inch shock cord: 1/4-inch shock cord

Replace the Kayak Shock Cord

For your next step, replace the kayak shock cord (bungee cord). Shock cord takes a beating, especially on the front deck where you hold your spare paddle. The blades tend to abrade and cut the lines. So, check this often.

Most kayaks ship with 3/16-inch shock cord, but you should replace it with 1/4-inch instead. Also, look for a 1/4-inch shock cord with an abrasion resistant sheath. Sgt. Knot makes a great 1/4-inch shock cord for kayaks.

Replace it in the same way as you replaced the deck line. The 1/4-inch line makes threading it even tougher, so instead of pulling out only 1 inch of the core and cutting, consider sacrificing 2 inches of the core. You’ll get a finer point and it will be easier to a grip on the cord before the full thickness passes through the fitting.

Unlike perimeter deck line, shock cord should be tight. When snapped, make sure it sounds like a drum. You’ll want it tight enough to securely hold your paddle and map case on the deck. Those two things are the only things that should be on your deck.

Conclusion

Using these tips, you should now know how to replace kayak deck lines easily and if you set the tension right, you’ll have a safer kayak than if you made them too tight, which is the tendency.